Photo: MUBI/Courtesy Everett Collection
The Substance, director Coralie Fargeat’s new body-horror movie concerning the curse of growing older in Hollywood, is masterfully well-crafted. Every body, taken individually, might be put in in a gallery like a piece of artwork. Every enhancing and sound alternative is calculated to extract most viewers discomfort. Ordinary noises are blasted into our eardrums at excessive volumes, like reverse ASMR, and there’s by no means a stationary digicam shot when one thing swooping or low-angled or most close-up may exist in its stead. Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley, as two halves of a self divided by the titular Substance, decide to frank unsexual nudity and many sorts of bodily and emotionally excessive efficiency in ways in which show each actors working on the prime of their recreation. I’m nonetheless dazzled on the extent of pure spectacle. Still, there’s one thing off in its central conceit.
Yes, the film is clearly utilizing maximalism and shock worth to make its factors. But the value of being thrilled by The Substance is accepting wholesale {that a} lady could be prepared to surrender her life seven days at a time to allow a model of her younger, stunning self to parade round in the world in her stead. The two selves don’t share a thoughts, so the outdated self should simply sit round and watch TV whereas the brand new self paints the city. Why, I puzzled, would anybody make that discount? My incapacity to droop my disbelief could also be in half as a result of Demi Moore, who performs light star Elisabeth Sparkle, is one of probably the most stunning 62-year-olds on the planet. If you’re already pretty excellent, why sacrifice all the pieces to permit a glistening Margaret Qualley to burst forth out of your spinal column each different week?
When we first meet Elisabeth, it’s by way of symbolism: We see a montage of her Walk of Fame star being scrupulously put in, shiny at first then, over time, fading and cracking and ignored by the vacationers who stroll over it, noticing it much less and fewer. We then meet real-life Elisabeth on the set of her long-running aerobics present, sweating it out in a skintight leotard and tights, wanting unbelievable. But not unbelievable sufficient for Dennis Quaid’s Harvey, the pinnacle of the studio and avatar of all the pieces masculine and rapacious in Hollywood. In shiny fits and clanking boots, his face distorted in punishing close-up, he loudly masticates shrimp at lunch in a manner that may make you by no means need to eat shrimp once more. As he does so, he fires Elisabeth from her present for being too outdated. She promptly goes out and crashes her shiny crimson automotive as a result of she’s distracted from the street by the sight of her outsize face being peeled off a billboard. At the hospital afterward, she’s pronounced unscathed, however a gleamingly youthful medical assistant slips her a card with a telephone quantity and the phrases “The Substance” wrapped inside a be aware that claims “It changed my life.”
Alone in her jewel-toned house with a punishingly brilliant full-wall window overlooking the town, Elisabeth smashes the shrines she’s erected to her personal magnificence, then calls the quantity, as we all know she's going to. Soon, she receives a numbered move card in the mail. No cash is exchanged, so far as we all know. She is just given instructions to a mysterious filthy again alley, the place on the finish of a debris-strewn hall a clean white room comprises lockers. Hers opens to disclose a cardboard field, harmless as an Amazon bundle, containing the equipment that may contaminate her future. She doesn’t hesitate, even momentarily, earlier than utilizing the equipment, which comes packaged with a quantity of scary warnings. Certainly, our tradition’s sexism and obsession with magnificence makes girls determined for options. But … this determined?
Here are the mechanics of how the Substance works. First, Elisabeth should strip right down to harshly lit nudity in her lablike white-tiled lavatory and examine her growing older physique. Again I've to emphasize that she seems to be nice, skinny and lithe with preternaturally pert boobs and simply the tiniest bit of normal-human ass-sag. Now, she should inject herself with a vial of brat-green liquid, then writhe and groan on the ground because it takes impact. Her greenish pupils cleave in half and sprout blue twins that crowd her eye sockets. A horrific lump distorts the flesh of her again. Then Margaret Qualley’s character, Sue, emerges from a clear line cleaved down her backbone. In the aftermath, in a sequence that elicited audible groans from the viewers I noticed it with, Sue is charged with stitching up the outlet she has emerged from with knots of thick black thread. We hear the needle stab and slither because it penetrates a thick wad of pores and skin. The process is accomplished with the insertion of an IV bag of vitamins labeled “FOOD” (an equivalent bag is marked “FOOD: OTHER SELF”) and Elisabeth’s semi-animate flesh-sack is left on the ground of the toilet in a puddle of yellow and pink juices to attend out the following week. Oh, another factor! To preserve from getting dizzy and spurting a sudden nosebleed, day by day Sue should insert a big hypodermic needle into Elisabeth’s uncovered backbone and extract a transparent fluid that she then injects into her personal flank, Ozempic-style. This have to be carried out for seven days in a row, at which level the selves completely should, per directions included with Elisabeth’s first Substance equipment, swap.
Sue promptly goes out and will get Elisabeth’s outdated job. Things go easily — the TV viewers loves her! She gyrates in a shimmery pink leotard with cutouts beneath unforgiving lighting, smiling ferociously into the digicam. When it’s Elisabeth’s week to exist in the world, issues are a bit bleaker. She goes to the trash-strewn alley to select up extra tubes and IV vitamins. After she runs into an acquaintance from highschool who remembers her because the prettiest lady in the world, she takes his quantity, although he’s wholly unappealing, and later arranges a date. Preparing to exit, she doubles again to regulate her outfit and apply increasingly more make-up, discovering herself more and more unhappy with what she sees in the mirror. Finally, she applies a slash of lipstick throughout her cheek in a gesture of savage disgust. It’s one of the toughest scenes in the film to look at; she appears about to actually tear her personal face off.
The drawback is that, whereas watching Demi Moore as Elisabeth roughly rub increasingly more concealer and blush into her preternaturally {smooth} cheeks, I couldn’t assist however take into consideration how nice she appeared. Even as she gave up on the date and crumpled, she nonetheless appeared, if not 26 and glowing like her other-self model, like an attractive film star who’s had costly and skillful work carried out on her face that makes her take a look at least ten years youthful than her precise age. For whom precisely would this not be sufficient? The Substance hinges on the viewers taking as a on condition that nothing however peak, high-assed, smooth-limbed perfection is an appropriate search for any lady, however a couple of extra seen wrinkles or strains of neck flesh would have bought the premise significantly better.
When Sue inevitably pushes the boundaries of the one-week rule, taking a couple of extra hours than she’s been allotted, the results are written on Elisabeth’s physique. First, Elisabeth sprouts a monstrous crone finger, desiccated and bony with an extended opaque nail. It’s obviously out of place on her in any other case nice physique. What if, as an alternative, the change had been extra diffuse? Just a few strands of grey hair, a paunch, a handful of brow wrinkles, progressing progressively as Sue steals increasingly more of Elisabeth’s essence? Instead, the movie goes for broke. Sue drains Elisabeth’s physique to its dregs, stopping solely when her spinal fluid dries up fully, then she’s pressured to change locations or, it’s implied, die. Of course, this occurs on the most inopportune second: She’s simply dragged a scorching motorcyclist again to the house for intercourse. The nightmare-crone model of Elisabeth who emerges from the toilet and chases that man out of the house — all hunched knobby backbone and popping varicose veins — is sweet for fun and a shudder, however what precisely is that this transformation imagined to imply?
The continued devolution of each Sue and Elisabeth in the final third of the film is a sustained expertise of most grotesquerie that I admired on the extent of efficiency and workmanship. Battle strains are drawn and the gleaming house is trashed in varied hilarious methods. At one level crone-Elisabeth leaves the house full of dishes cooked from a traditional French cookbook to rot in every single place. The conclusion of Sue’s quest to seem on her TV community’s New Year’s Eve broadcast is greatest left unspoiled, however I ought to point out that gallons upon gallons of blood are splattered. It’s onerous to think about a extra extreme punishment for eager to unleash a youthful self on the world.
My absurd want for this determinedly unsubtle film was just for it to have leavened its relentlessness with extra moments of precision. What a completely chilling — as a result of acquainted — second it might have been to have Elisabeth discover some minor change in her pristine look, a stray, unruly grey chin hair or the shock of a vein protruding on an in any other case {smooth} thigh? The course of of growing older naturally is disgusting, this film appears to be saying, and of course the viewers agrees. But pushing that cultural dictate to its most outlandish extremes appears, finally, superfluous, when the reality is already horrific sufficient.
