Spring 2025 Gucci Ready-to-Wear Collection

When Fiordaliso’s 1986 hit “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” kicked in because the fashions walked their finale lap at Gucci immediately, the gang began bopping of their seats and singing alongside. Sabato De Sarno’s first 12 months at this model hasn’t all the time been simple, however he got down to put a sunny, pleased spin on issues along with his new present.

His first step was returning to La Triennale, Milan’s museum of artwork and design and the location of his June males’s present, staging a type of sundown within the spherical, with successive rooms within the rectangular area shading from yellow to orange to Ancora purple. At a preview earlier this week De Sarno talked fondly about his August holidays, spent along with his husband and fogeys in Formentera—the set was designed to seize that countless summer time feeling.

His muse was Jackie O, a Gucci consumer method again when and world type icon to at the present time, one who’s impressed numerous designers over the a long time. “When I made my research in the archive I found someone describe her style as ‘casual grandeur.’ These words stayed with me for my creative period,” he defined. The Kennedy clan is freshly related—Ryan Murphy simply introduced he’s producing a brand new TV present about John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy—so the Jackie hyperlink was a little bit of synchronicity.

The reference wasn’t apparent from the opening look, a wool bomber paired with hip-slung slouchy trousers (beforehand seen in his spring assortment for males) and sneakers, however because the present progressed, the archival print headscarves and large sun shades steered De Sarno was vibing on Jackie’s Capri period. A woven raffia coat in fluoro inexperienced with a barely perceptible floral print and printed seaside separates with matching wide-brimmed solar hats—these patterns impressed by a photograph of Queen Elizabeth II in Gucci—had been designed to channel the jet-set type of the ’60s.

For the superstar contingent—Kirsten Dunst, Dakota Johnson, Daisy Edgar-Jones, and the like—there was a purple carpet-friendly mirror sequin sleeveless costume. Elsewhere De Sarno riffed on the enduring white jersey clothes of Tom Ford’s fall 1996 assortment, solely his had been in deep colours and draped from gold bamboo-shaped arm bands and chokers. The Bamboo bag was the corporate’s huge push this season. There had been plenty of classic variations personalized by Japanese artists within the present, and a press launch made particular be aware of an exhibition at present operating in Japan showcasing the bag’s 60-year historical past in that nation. A shoulder strap bucket bag that additionally appeared often had horsebit detailing, which was seen, too, on new flat boots, an evolution of the model’s acquainted loafers.

The present culminated in a bunch of seems to be with the jet-set spirit of immediately: oversize coats whose hems scraped the ground worn with tanks and boyish denims. These would possibly’ve represented De Sarno’s greatest advance: an elusive informal perspective that he hasn’t fairly nailed earlier than. A gloom has set in at Gucci, however watching the dancing and singing alongside to that previous Fiordaliso music, it appeared that De Sarno had discovered himself some new followers. That’s a step ahead, notion being such an important component of success.